| Changing Face of Menswear | ||||||||||||||
| Kirsten Sharett, WGSN 23.08.02 | ||||||||||||||
Lloyd Boston, a stylist expert from the NBC Today show and a host on E! Entertainment Style network, joined the panel after a slide show presentation that broke down some keys myths about the monolith man, something he addresses in his new book, Make Over Your Man: The womans guide to dressing any man in her life, released this fall. Moderator Jason Lundy, the executive director of marketing and strategic
planning at Esquire magazine, also shared the latest findings of two
years of comparative research on the affluent male and his shopping habits.
Americas new breed of wealthy men There
has been a 400% increase in the number of people who make $100,000 or more
in the US since 2000, which has spawned a new desire among young
professionals to covet luxury, sophistication, quality, and value, according
to the latest research compiled by Esquire magazine. This, in turn,
has changed how men feel about dressing. Conspicuous consumption in this country has really turned into
conspicuous connoisseurship, said Lundy. Its not about the label as much
as it about the quality of the garment. Luxury today is also more about enhancing a lifestyle, rather than investing in a portfolio, and proving to others around you that you understand quality. Lundys research found that the standards of the middle class are rising
very quickly, and its altering their approach to life. There is a
tremendous jump in the last two years in the area of research showing the
use of luxury goods as part of everyday life, said Lundy. Reaching women in order to reach men Based on the research for his latest book, Lloyd Boston, found that the best way to get a man to shop was to educate and empower the women that he is trying to impress and to take cues from the womens market. The effect women have on mens spending powers are underestimated, Boston said. Women have a very powerful impact on the way that men drive the clothing and luxury accessories business. Saks mens fashion director, Dan McCampbell, agrees. Its very important
that women understand what looks good because they are very important to our
business. Menswear market remains healthy, but will get even healthier as casualwear and business attire are strictly defined McCampbell confirmed that business is healthy. The strongest selling areas are the modern and contemporary apparel lines. The battle between classic suiting and casualwear has also reached a truce, with distinct boundaries as to what is appropriate to wear where and what pieces actually define the style.This new approach of separate, but equal, has allowed areas like the tie business, which was dead two years ago, to enjoy a dramatic return. Esquire magazines research found that 3/5ths of men still like to
wear a suit, shirt and tie to the office and that 2/5ths also enjoy wearing
a suit and shirt without a tie to the office. Its no secret that this whole dress casual phenomenon failed, said McCampell, who claimed that when casualwear hit the market, Saks suit business did decline, but the loss was by no means made up for in the sportswear business. Were not trying to give men too many options on that, he said. When
we talked about dress casual in the past, we provided too many choices. So
we have set up our floors and are marketing this fall, as a place to shop
for your wardrobe for work, but it can be a modern suit with a beautifully
woven shirt, but its complete from head to toe, the right shoes and the
right belt. American versus European styles Dressing up, even looking casually well put together, is a seemingly innate talent for European men.The lack of some fashion education is where style falls apart in America. McCampbell said the only way to address better style with American men, is with time and education and attention at the retail level. We have to spend time, we need to make sure we have sales associates that do take the time to spend with a gentleman to make them over. John Bartlett found that European buyers, for a long time, only wanted to
buy classic American sportswear from American designers because they didnt
believe New York could offer anything else. What I have learned was that the idea of sexiness and menswear were two different things, Bartlett added. A lot of people were uncomfortable celebrating the male form. In womens, if a model walks down the runway in a g-string, its considered an outfit, but if a man walks down the runway in a bathing suit, people dont know where to look and they get very uncomfortable. You are working with the parameters of that mentality and youre designing within the parameters of a jacket or a shirt. Bartlett has offered a slimmer fitting and more body-conscious collection
for the last two seasons and yet has also introduced an oversized, easier
fit. Ultimately the buyers told him to go back to sexy and slim-fitting. Democratising designs for men Mens fashion options are also increasing with the advent of retailers like H&M and Zara, which mirror international runway trends and push male-friendly stores. This has prompted retailers such as Banana Republic and Club Monaco to upgrade their quality and offer more products for men. The playing field is somewhat leveled between the luxury customer and
the moderate customer as well as the discount customer who now has access to
this middle ground, said stylist Boston. The young guy with a little cash
and a great body can look just as good as his wealthy uncle who spends a
fortune on Madison Avenue. People who used to buy $300 designer trousers are much more open to buying fashion at a lower price, said Bartlett, who launched a fusion line called John Bartlett Uniform that debuted at Saks in spring and is now expanding for fall. The line incorporates the essence of this new fashion democracy, by infusing design for a lower price point. Weve seen this happen in stores like Target, where renowned designers are offering high-end design products at more competitive prices. The panelists agreed however that this was not the next menswear trend. Its hard for me to envision designer labels in Target making any impact, said designer Bartlett. But if a company like Target took more chances with their fashion, I could see them taking business away from Banana Republic. Were going for more of a diversification of price points, McCampbell
explained. In the designer and contemporary world, everything does not have
to be at the high end. We need that disposable fashion delivered on a
monthly basis. Revising the shopping experience Getting men in the stores is almost harder than getting them to shop. Men dont shop like women and its nice to see the data back it up, said Lundy. Its not entertainment. They shop with a purpose. Theyre in the store because they want something. This is a tremendous challenge for the store in terms of how to merchandise items to get men in the store when they are not shopping for something specific in mind. At Saks, McCampbell said they are offering new services in
made-to-measure clothing. They have a new program where for under $1,000 a
man can create his own made-to-measure suit and choose fabrics from Italy.
Restaurants are also a good idea, said Brionis Barrato. We have to recognise that men dont like to shop and they need conveniences. A restaurant is nothing more than adding that convenience. McCampbell added, If we can feed them, do their grooming and make them
over, we will. We want to keep them there as long as we can, so parties and
events will become more crucial and more important going forward.s Celebrities remain important role models for men The timeless appeal of classic smoking pipes captivates enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Our online store offers a curated selection of exquisite bongs that blend tradition with modern design. Each piece not only enhances your smoking experience but also serves as a stunning centerpiece. Discover the perfect smoking pipes that reflect your style and elevate your sessions to a whole new level of enjoyment. The panelists by and large agreed that celebrities, particularly sports figures, actors, and musicians, have an astounding influence on men, in terms of serving as role models. |
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